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Species Care Sheet

Canopy Jumping Spider

Phidippus otiosus

Beginner to intermediate to keep

Canopy Jumping Spider, Phidippus otiosus
Photo: David Hill, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Adult sizeFemales 12 to 18mm, males 10 to 13mm
LifespanRoughly 1 to 2 years (estimate)
Temperature70 to 80F, room temperature
HumidityMostly dry, around 50 to 60 percent
EnclosureTall and tree-like, at least 4 x 4 x 6 inches
SubstrateThin coconut fibre, barely damp
DietFlies, small crickets, roach nymphs
HandlingYes, but a little more flighty

The spider

The canopy jumper is the show-stopper of the group, named for its life on tree trunks in the south-eastern United States, and prized for iridescent chelicerae that run from purple to green. Its care is much the same as its cousins, but it is a true arboreal, so height and climbing surfaces matter even more, and it tends to be a little more high-strung. It is less often captive-bred than the regal or bold, so known-age home-raised stock is worth seeking out. The figures here are the best community estimates, since less is firmly documented for this species.

Home and environment

Give it the tallest, most tree-like enclosure you can, with cork bark, branches, and high anchor points, since it webs its retreat up high and an under-tall or bare enclosure stresses it. Cross-ventilate on two opposite sides over a thin layer of barely-damp coconut fibre, keep it out of direct sun, and seal every seam.

Feeding

Feed flightless fruit flies to slings, then small crickets, bottle flies, and roach nymphs as it grows, with fatty feeders only as a treat. The one firm rule is prey no larger than the spider's abdomen. How often each one eats depends on its size and its last molt, so I do not print a schedule here. Every spider goes home with one, and I am glad to share mine if you ask. Feed to body condition rather than the clock; a plump abdomen means skip a meal.

Molting

When it is time to molt, the spider seals into a thick silk hammock, usually high in the enclosure, and stops eating for days to over a week. Do not feed it and do not disturb the retreat, and remove any live insect at once, since a cricket can kill a soft, defenceless spider. For two to three days after the molt the new body stays soft, so leave it alone until it is hardened and hunting again.

Temperament and handling

Bold and curious like its cousins and handleable with the same voluntary hand-walking, but expect a somewhat more jumpy disposition, so keep sessions short, low, and over something soft. Bites are harmless.

What to avoid

  • High humidity with poor airflow, which breeds mould and stresses the lungs
  • Leaving live prey in while the spider is sealed up to molt
  • Prey larger than the spider's abdomen
  • Handling over a hard surface, where a fall can rupture the abdomen
  • An enclosure that is too short or bare, which stresses this tree-dwelling species
  • Housing two together, which ends in cannibalism

“Those purple-green fangs catch the light like nothing else. Give it the tallest, most tree-like home you can and let it climb. It is a touch more high-strung than a regal, so keep handling low, slow, and over something soft.”

From the keeper

More care sheets · Regal Jumping Spider · Bold Jumping Spider · Johnson's Jumping Spider · Heavy Jumping Spider

Care notes reflect the r/jumpingspiders keeping community's consensus, cross-checked across hobby care resources. Every animal is an individual; watch yours and adjust.

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